Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Assembling a Japanese Floor Lamp one week at a time (JFL8)

I want to shed some light on something, let's get this lamp done!  This post is all about assembly and fine tuning the fit of a lot of the smaller pieces of this lamp.  How to install the rails in this lamp has bugged me since day one and rightfully so.  Once they are in place this project finally picks up the momentum it had when it first started.

Here we have the bottom rails in place.  I was so focused on perfecting my technique and getting them in right that I didn't take any pictures of the progress.  There are four more rails at the top and I'll walk through how I got them in with all of the lessons I learned on the bottom.
The first thing I did was drive the screws though the last part of the pocket hole to "pre-drill" the rest of that hole.  It's a lot easier to do on the work bench then it is to do while holding the rail in place with one hand.  I then backed the screw out a bit so the point was buried enough to not scratch anything while being maneuvered into place.
In order to get the rails at the right height I clamped the vertical detail piece in place...
...and used my two MDF spacers on the top.  Here we can see that glue has been applied to the rails and there's a bit of squeeze out at the left side.
I apply a clamp to hold the rail in place.
Once more of the rails are on there's no room to use a drill or even a screw driver to tighten the screws.  I set up a ratchet with a screwdriver bit to get the job done.
It works.  I had to be careful not to over tighten the screws but I wanted enough pressure on them to really lock the rails in place.  I found over tightening could lead to the jatoba starting to crack or the screws actually snapping in half.  Have I mentioned that jatoba is hard stuff?

All four of the rails are glued and screwed in.
This rail had a bit of a twist so I used a hand plane to knock down the high corner.
Now it's on to sanding!
And more sanding!  I didn't have any speeches to write this time.  I find sanding relaxing so I was practically in a coma by the time I was done.
Or...I would have been if I hadn't been worrying about these.  Attaching the rails on this project represented a challenge because of the tight spaces involved but a much bigger challenge was how to hold the paper in place for the screens.  It was decided early on the screens should be replaceable.  There isn't much protecting them and sooner or later one of them is going to get chewed on by a puppy, or have a drink spilled on it, or a child is going to colour on it with a marker, or Johnny Depp is going to come by with his scissor hands and poke a hole in it or slightly less likely, I'll poke a hole in it loading it into the truck for delivery.  Anyway, Mrs. G decided early on the screens should be replaceable and I've been anticipating this challenge ever since.  So I carefully cut the dowels that the the mulberry paper will wrap around to exact length and snap them in place.
This is when I discover that cutting the dowels long enough to fit tightly is the only mechanism that's required to keep them from spinning too easily.  Great!
This lamp still needs a light.  I use a piece of poplar for this because I'm pretty sure my drill will launch the piece of wood like a Russian Rocket headed to the ISS if I try to make a big hole in a piece of jatoba.  First I mark out the centre.
Then I drill a hole for the light bulb socket to fit into.
Then I add some pocket holes for attaching the piece to the lamp.
These last two holes will have the wires threaded though them.  I do this so that the spliced wires will be hidden and so I can push the cord through the hole and tie a knot in it to lock it in place.  This way if someone trips on the cord they'll have 40 pounds of jatoba hurtling straight at them instead of 120 volts of exposed live wires.  I deem this to be safer.

I square up the post and clamp it in place with some glue.
Then I drive in the screws.  For once I got to use a power tool to put the screws in so this was a very quick piece to install.

Next I begin gluing the small detail pieces to the vertical rails.  I assemble everything to help hold the pieces precisely in place.
I add clamping pressure to the glued up half lap joints.  The whole detail assembly can still be removed at this point, I'm not gluing anything to the frame yet.
I've discovered that for whatever reason one of the vertical rails just won't go into place any more.  So I pull out a chisel...
...and make an adjustment.  It's pretty easy to just trim the rail a little bit to make it fit again.  I suspect the problem has been caused by the weather changing.  It's gotten pretty warm and humid outside.
So...this is what it'll look like when it's done!  I've got to say, it turned out exactly like the picture I've had in my head this whole time.
I remove the centre parts and give them a final sanding.  I'm sure it'd be impossible to sand these once they're glued in place.
Once the centre pieces are oily smooth, I glue them in place one side at a time since I don't have that many small clamps.  This process took all week.
There's a slight rock to the lamp that I'm not happy with.  I located a bit of the base that's maybe a 32nd of an inch proud and mark it with chalk.  I'll sand it down when I sand the entire lamp one final time.
Here's the lamp ready for sanding.
Next post we'll look at adding the screens.  Since Mrs. G handled the paper products in this project maybe a guest author is in order for the next post?

Cheers!

Sunday, 24 June 2012

Japanese Floor Lamp- Dry Fit (JFL7)

Since I didn't end the last post with a dry fit picture to gauge progress, here's a few.


Cheers!

Tuesday, 19 June 2012

The Jatoba and I get in a fight (JFL Part 6)

This weeks post is all about plowing through some of the details.  It's another good lesson in having the right tools for the job.  

The jatoba threw the first punch when I tried to use a slot cutting bit to create grooves that would eventually hide the edges of the paper screens.  I took that one full in the face and countered with a bench-top router table jab to the kidneys.  It just felt too scary to really get the result I really wanted so the grooves ended up a lot shallower than I had intended.  Later on the jatoba tried to sucker punch me with tear out while cutting some slots but I cranked up the horse power on the router and drove the jatoba to the mat in round 2 with a jaw shattering uppercut.  After going the distance the judges unanimously declared Teg's Tools the winner over my wallet as I'll be shopping for a full sized router table as soon as possible.

I've had the horizontal rails in place several times but they all needed to be individually fit a little better in order to be able to get glue on them and push them into place without making a mess.  I clamped each one in the vice and used a block plane to shave them down to size.  A second piece of jatoba is clamped behind the rail that's being worked on so the grains at the end of the board are supported and don't tear out.
A million pocket holes are drilled in the rails.  These will help hold everything together since the glue's strength will be significantly weakened due to the joinery on these pieces being an end grain butt joint.  Putting tendons on these pieces would have made the entire project a nightmare to glue up as it would all have to be assembled and glued in one shot.  That's a lot of gluing and clamping to do in 10 minutes or less. No one's going to be climbing on these pieces...I hope... so I'm pretty sure the pocket hole screws will be plenty strong enough.
The bottom rails are all test fit.  I have 2 pieces of MDF that I use as spacers to get them all exactly the same height.
Someone get that drill a little blue pill!
There's no room for an ordinary drill bit to get to the pocket hole screws so I intend to use a device that allows you to drive screws from an angle.  Figuring out a way to drive the screws in has been bugging me for weeks so I was trying to see if this option would work during the dry fitting.  I've still got a long ways to go before I put the screws in.
I wrap up dry fit and call it a night.  Little did I know the jatoba and I were going to throw down during our next session.
Pre-fight warm up:  I grab some poplar and test out the slot cutter I'm going to use to cut the grooves.  Poplar's no jatoba but it doesn't look like there's going to be a problem.
I mark the sides that need grooves with tape.  I could see me doing something smart and cutting a big old groove down one of the outside faces of the legs just because I'm like that.  I like to idiot proof...and then go a step farther and G proof the process when possible.
This is where the jatoba comes out swinging.  The focus is a little off but towards the left side of the picture below you can see a piece of tearout that's nearly 2" long after cutting the first groove.  There's also a little bit at the very end that I'm not as concerned about because it will be hidden.
I try to defend by using a marking gauge to sever the wood fibers at the edges of the groove before doing the routing.
But it's not enough.
So I get out the bench-top router table.  This always feels a little dangerous because only 2 of the 3 screws that are supposed to hold the router in get any grip.  The legs are also a little long for the surface.  I was pretty careful and left the grooves very shallow to compensate.
And I made some sawdust.
Now I start to make a template to cut some slots.  The slots will hold the dowels that the paper screens will be attached to.  I glued together two pieces of MDF to get the thickness I needed.
I then drilled holes for the dowel...
...and cut out the rest with a hand saw.
Here's a test slot.  The jatoba still has some fight left in it.
More tearout.
This is better.  I ended up cranking the speed way up on the router and most of the slots came out clean.
Here's the template in action.  I've put green tape over the slot I don't want to cut out on this side of the leg.


This is what it looks like with the slots cut in both sides of the leg.

With the routing details all done on the legs it's time to get some glue on something.  I start by cleaning up the base.
I plane off the burn marks...
...and give the base a good sanding.
Here's what it's going to look like.  The notes for my best man's speech are on the left.  Sanding is a good time to thing about things like that.
The glue is applied.
And spread evenly using a rubber roller.
The two pieces are firmly clamped together.
Here's the end product.
Now that the base is done, I start gluing the legs into it two at a time.

The glue's drying and this post is longer that this lamp is tall so let's call it a day.

Cheers!